The Future of Sustainable Fashion event took place on Monday, January 20, 2025, at the MOMus - Museum of Modern Art in Thessaloniki, Greece. The workshop was implemented surrounded by the relative with the subject exhibition Collective Threads: Anna Andreeva at the Red Rose Silk Factory. This initiative was implemented by Helenos Consulting, a partner of the Eye of Europe Project, and aimed to engage local citizens.

I. Introduction
Today, our highly complex and uncertain world requires strategic tools that will help us create new sustainable development trajectories. Fashion is more than an industry. It can reveal unique and collective identities, norms, and ethics but is also associated with environmental issues. It is one of the largest pollutant industries, prompting a shift in how we produce and consume fashion items. How might the climate crisis change our attitudes, and how does this impact the fashion industry?
Historically, fashion trends have been reflecting social issues. Characteristics examples are the 50’s full skirts in America, which put the woman in a specific position within the family and society, and the feminine wig hair in Ancient Egypt as a symbol of wisdom and respect revealing the matriarchal regime that was dominating in that period, and many other incidents. Nowadays, the role of the sexes has changed, while fashion consumption can also demonstrate our ethics and norms about social issues such as working conditions and climate change. The main goal of the workshop on the Future of Sustainable Fashion is to explore all these connections among objects, fiction, culture, and systems and to inspire participants to rethink their consumption habits, express themselves, imagine, and co-create alternative futures. It proposes a significant shift in fashion's approach to the future, moving away from short-term trends and predictions based on economic growth and industrial productivity, and instead embracing a more long-term, values-driven, empathetic, collective, humane, and environmentally conscious approach.

II. Results and outcomes
Favorite Fashion Items
The description and explanation of participants' favorite fashion items reveal broader categories for evaluating and preferring these items. The first category focuses on practicality, with comfort and elegance being the most valued aspects. The second category encompasses ethical consumption, including support for local and national small producers and a preference for sustainably made fashion products. The third category addresses the emotions these items evoke, with positive feelings such as love, affection, confidence, simplicity, and self-sufficiency being the most prominent. Additionally, emotions related to femininity, self-expression, and the expression of both collective and personal identities are also significant. Furthermore, the role of culture and tradition in fashion is highlighted as contributing to the support of collective identities.


Fashion Timeline Analysis
Based on the categorization of the results of each group, we created the following Fashion Timeline Analysis, taking into account the three horizons: past, present and future.

Past
The historical fashion industry was characterized by the positive aspects of high-quality, durable garments and a slow fashion approach that allowed for customization and trust in producers. However, there were significant challenges. While garments were crafted with superior materials and provided longevity, the disadvantages that were referred were about complexity and the high costs of the manufacturing process, making clothing less accessible to the general public. Consequently, there was a lack of diversity in fashion, while clothing often reinforced social stereotypes, such as restrictive garments for women, including corsets that symbolized oppression. In addition to that, textiles and designs were often uncomfortable and harmful, and the widespread use of animal-derived materials imposing ecosystemic consequences.

Present
Today’s fashion industry has undergone major transformations. In the positive aspects, clothing is more affordable and diverse. Furthermore, fashion has become a medium for self-expression, reflecting social changes, including gender fluidity and inclusivity. The emergence of eco-friendly and vegan materials, along with the rise of second-hand clothing and circular economy initiatives, has brought sustainability into focus. However, the quality of clothing has declined due to mass production, and the environmental impact of the industry is significant. Fast fashion has led to poor working conditions, harmful materials, and an increase in overconsumption. The global standardization of clothing has reduced cultural uniqueness, and consumerism continues to be driven by brand status rather than necessity.

Future
Looking ahead, the fashion industry holds potential for ethical and sustainable improvements while leveraging technological advancements to enhance efficiency and inclusivity. According to the participants, ethical consumer choices and circular economy principles should be prioritized, promoting recycling and reusing textiles to reduce environmental impact. Transparency in supply chains will become more prevalent, and innovations in smart textiles and wearable technology are expected to revolutionize the industry. Additionally, inclusivity in fashion can ensure that clothing serves the needs of diverse and vulnerable groups. On the negative side, the rising costs of sustainable fashion may create accessibility issues, and despite sustainability efforts, fashion waste may continue to be a problem. The scarcity of raw materials poses another threat, and wearable technology raises concerns regarding privacy and data security. The growing trend of online consumption may also reduce personal human interactions in fashion retail, altering the shopping experience.

What-if Scenarios, Fashion Artefacts, Values and Emotions
Three out of the five scenarios envisioned and described the negative impact of climate change, illustrating how it would affect humanity and our way of life. Two scenarios imagined a return to a rural way of living, where people would cultivate their own food. In one case, climate change led to a scarcity of raw materials, forcing society to revert to ancient practices, including wearing animal leather. In contrast, a more optimistic scenario depicted humanity achieving self-awareness and proactively addressing environmental issues. Another scenario, closely resembling the present, portrayed fast fashion continuing to dominate, fostering monopolistic markets that resulted in homogenized clothing and severe environmental consequences. Lastly, a dystopian scenario envisioned the destruction of Earth, prompting human migration to another planet where they had to coexist with extraterrestrial beings.

Despite the diversity of these scenarios, the core social values associated with life and fashion remained remarkably similar across them. In three of the five cases, artefacts were primarily utilized as tools for survival, safety, and adaptation to new realities. The remaining two scenarios emphasized the detection of emotions through artefacts. Social values such as solidarity, functionality, and consciousness were prevalent throughout the workshop’s results. Additionally, the idea of uniforms replacing diverse clothing was proposed, positioning them as essential tools for survival.

All artefacts incorporated new technologies, with AI sensors and nanotechnology-based materials and textiles being the most prominent. Organic materials were also integrated into one artefact, highlighting the growing emphasis on sustainability and innovation in future fashion. 

Fashion Futuring Wheel

The working groups made suggestions and propositions in the following R&I policy aspects. 

Manufacturing & Distribution
The future of fashion manufacturing and distribution is closely linked to sustainability and ethical production. Fair trade practices, green logistics using renewable energy sources, and robotic automation to eliminate exploitative labor practices were highlighted as key developments. For the last suggestion there should be caution when we integrate robots in the production process, since machines should be seen as tools to assist rather than replace human workers.
Industrial symbiosis is gaining traction, where industries should collaborate to minimize waste. Small producers are called to play a larger role, ensuring localized and more sustainable production models. Affordable raw materials and green manufacturing practices will be essential for our future to be viable, and actions towards ethical working regulations, are required.

Environment, Social Responsibility, and Governance (ESG)
For ESG, emphasis was given on funding initiatives that encourage companies to adopt green practices. In governance, participatory decision-making models could enhance the integration of ESG principles into the industry, while regulations particularly in relation to human and non-human relationships, was also mentioned as a determinant in the shape of the future landscape.

Arts & Philosophy
Art and philosophy should continue to shape fashion by promoting sustainability and respect for nature. Some ideas included artistic fairs focused on planetary well-being, that aim to sensitize citizens about environmental issues and self-expression and decolonization as the main concepts in future art to influence design and fashion. The New European Bauhaus and permaculture principles constitute good practices that could inspire societies to align fashion with natural ecosystems, while philosophical movements should be used to reinforce discipline and balance over consumerism.

Education & Politics
Education and politics are expected to play a crucial role in shaping the fashion industry's future. Actions including public funding for education in sustainability awareness, but also inclusivity being at the center of learning outcomes in the educational system, and re-skilling of workforce to be prepared and adapted to new innovations and technologies, were suggested. Furthermore, participants highlighted the influence of participatory workshops to engage citizens in social and environmental issues, fostering responsibility and ethical consumer behavior.

Consumption & Trends
Consumer habits are expected to evolve towards more ethical and sustainable choices, serving a good cause rather than mere aesthetics. According to the audience, trends should prioritize discipline and simplicity, encouraging consumers to rethink purchases before buying. In this context, the demand for affordable green clothing will rise, reinforcing the circular economy, where people will choose their clothes based on functionality and durability. Another important aspect is the need for transparency in fashion value chain to become a standard practice, which was also proposed during the workshop.

Communication
Communication in the fashion industry will be driven by digitalization, inclusivity and transparency. Platforms should adopt an educational character towards sustainability awareness in fashion, while hologram assistants are expected to become prevalent, guiding consumers through ethical purchasing decisions. The evaluation of information will be necessary to ensure transparency and credibility in fashion-related discussions. At the same time, ethical considerations and inclusivity will be fundamental in communication strategies.

Design Principles
Similarly to the aspect of Communication, in Design Principles, digitization, inclusivity and sustainability were recognized as the main values in future development in Design. Digitalization in design can lead to better results in terms of efficiency, but also in more eco-friendly processes. The integration of new technologies such as AI, is expected to transform the design process and change fundamentally the fashion industry. Furthermore, design should be more inclusive, meaning that it should consider the needs of more diversified and vulnerable target groups, ensuring that fashion serves the needs of all individuals.

Materials, Science & Technology
Innovation in materials, science, and technology will revolutionize fashion. AI and sensor-equipped textiles will enhance functionality and customization. Prototypes and testing are essentials, since they will ensure the safety of emerging technologies. Clothing should become increasingly comfortable while also reflecting personal values. Regarding the environmental impact, recycling of textiles and the development of new materials from landfill waste can help reduce pollution. At the same time natural materials should be prioritized to minimize environmental harm. Finally, the mass production of sustainable textiles is vital for eco-friendly clothing to become widely available, which can be achieved through investments in new technologies.

As radical innovations are having a profound impact globallyon the macroeconomic environment, the Region of Central Macedonia is monitoringclosely following the developments, trends and variables that favour or affect it or negatively affecting its development.
Institutions and executives from the private and public sector have explored through a participatory and dynamic process (Thematic Participatory Workshop) the variables that will the innovation and entrepreneurship environment of the region with time horizon 2030, identified their dynamics and evaluated their interaction. The findings provided input to the working group for the development of four scenarios that will define the future of innovation in the region of Central Macedonia in the coming decade. These scenarios identified
the development of a proposal of three strategic axes, developing in a stepwise manner in three different periods, which will strengthen the resilience of the region and prepare it to face the conditions in these four futures.

The study is available in Greek.

The project concerns the operation of the One Stop Liaison Office Mechanism of the Regional Authority, the development of digital tools aiming to support the regional ecosystem, while at the same time monitoring and evaluating the Smart Specialization Strategy.

One Stop Liaison Office Operation
Horizon Scanning (Greek)
Innovation 2030 (Greek)
RIS3 Strategy Monitoring
RIS3 Strategy Evaluation
Updating the RIS3 Strategy 2021-2027

The project is co-financed by the European Regional Development Fund

Megatrends 2040 was a project of Hellenic Republic-Presidency of the Government Special Secretariat of Foresight.

The secondary research conducted, initially revealed about twenty megatrends and trends, often cited in published academic papers, foresight books, reputable strategic studies, in the media, and especially in The Megatrends Hub of the JRC . Seven of these Megatrends, with a significant impact on the European and global economy, society and policies, have been selected.

Many of the megatrends presented here, are found in the European Commission’s Megatrends Hub or other sources of recognised standing in procedures of Horizon Scanning. In addition, the simple method of the Futures Wheel, which can be used by public institutions as a first step in understanding the interconnection of upcoming changes and challenges, is set out in Annex I (Glenn, 2009) . 

The analysis identified global challenges such as climate change, potential financial crises, pandemics and implications of exponential technological developments. These challenges (eg.Covid19) -often not directly dependent on the human factor- will bring about extensive pressure and significant impact on countries and societies. The effects of climate change and environmental degradation are likely to affect food and water availability for poor countries, intensify migration, cause new health challenges and contribute to biodiversity loss. New technologies will emerge and will spread faster, disrupting the economy, the labour market, society itself and the citizen’s position in it. The continuing effects of climate change exacerbate inequalities and intensify the phenomenon of climate migration globally, creating constantly new problems in both the countries of origin and of destination. The above challenges, if combined, will in turn affect other parameters, with implications that are extremely difficult to assess.

The study concerns the development of 4 Scenarios for 2040, for 5 Balkan cities: Thessaloniki, Nicosia, Skopje, Sofia, Tirana.

The research team identifies the factors that influence the development of these cities and highlights those that shape the urban future, identifying both the key challenges that cities will have to face and the forces they can proactively harness and build their desired future.

All scenarios present plausible future images of the above cities including references to their environmental status for 2040, as well as information on the specific air quality challenges.

The development of the scenarios took place in the framework of the European project AIRTHINGS (funded by the Interreg programme). It was implemented by a project team involving Helenos Consulting and the UNESCO Chair on Futures Research (ITE/PRAXI).

As a partner of the Eye of Europe Project, Helenos will implement its second pilot on Fashion Futuring, investigating potential links among objects, fiction, culture, and systems to understand how the values of the systems/societies can shape the future of fashion.

Date: 14/04/2025
Time: 11.00-15.00 (CET)
Location: MOMus- Museum of Modern Art, Thessaloniki, Greece
Format: In-person
Audience: Domain Experts
Context
Have you ever wondered why people in Ancient Egypt (3100-30 BCE) wore hair wigs? Or why samurai have been associated with kimonos, while feminine full skirts are linked with the post-war America of the ‘50s? There are numerous examples of fashion items that represent specific periods and places. 

But what does that signify?
In ancient Egypt, men wearing hair wigs was considered an honor and a symbol of equalization to women, as women were regarded as wise and sacred. Similarly, in Tokugawa Japan (1603 – 1868), when samurai lived, clothing indicated one’s rank and role within the highly structured feudal society, while in post-war America, fashion was influenced by the idealized image of the suburban family, emphasizing domesticity and traditional gender roles.
The common space of all three examples is that - throughout the centuries - fashion has served people and societies as a way of self-expression, a sign of social status, also revealing the prevailing social norms and beliefs.

Today, our highly complex and uncertain world requires strategic tools that will help us create new sustainable development trajectories. Fashion not only reveals unique and collective identities, norms, and ethics but is also associated with environmental issues. It is one of the largest pollutant industries, prompting a shift in the way we produce and consume fashion items. How might the climate crisis change our attitudes, and how does this impact the fashion industry?


What is Fashion Futuring?
Fashion Futuring is an innovative approach that investigates potential links among objects, fiction, culture, and systems to understand how the values of the systems/societies can shape the future of fashion. It suggests a significant shift in the future of fashion approach, moving away from short-term trends and financial forecasting as primary factors for fashion production, towards sustainable, more humane means of fashion producing and consuming.


The pilot
The upcoming pilot in April is targeted towards domain experts in fashion & foresight. The workshop consists of a 7-stage methodology based on Garcia (2023), where participants will be encouraged to share their personal experiences and values, co-create a fictional future, and work together to design a fictional fashion item based on this future. The workshop will utilize various foresight methods, primarily core design, what-if scenario development, and strategic thinking.

That will be the second pilot in Fashion Futuring implemented by Helenos. The first pilot was held in January 2025 in Thessaloniki, involving local citizens. This upcoming workshop aims to contribute to a collective knowledge pool, helping to create a comprehensive understanding of the future of fashion and sustainability.

This workshop will be implemented in English.

For more information, please contact the following emails: 

stavros.mantzanakis@helenosconsulting.eu (Stavros Mantzanakis)

eliza.savvopoulou@helenosconsulting.eu (Eliza Savvopoulou)

Doiran ecosystem as a part of Natura 2000 (GR 123 0003) protected areas is located in the border between Greece and the Republic of North Macedonia, and constitutes a rich and invaluable area for the wetland in terms of natural beauty and developmental perspective.

Local and peripheral organizations have been closely working together for years as the lake requires close and structured collaboration in order to effectively face and address common problems and challenges such as:

Taking measures for the vital protection of the ecosystem
The lack of a strategic plan and stable mechanism for managing the ecosystem has caused serious problems as:
a) physical and chemical water elements are only periodically checked by third parties

b) Risk management is not organized and proactive process

c) The collaboration between the two countries becomes difficult and ineffective.

Taking measures for the compliance of Greece and the Republic of North Macedonia to the European law in order to conform to the conditions and entry processes to the EU.
The co-management of the lake so far is based in incomplete and nonrecurring actions
The protection and management plan of the lake should be based on mutual values and principles adopted by local associations
There is no technical infrastructure for the protection, management, and development of the ecosystem
The exploitation of natural resources can contribute to a great extent to the local development attracting more visitors and enhancing agricultural (traditional products) and cultural inheritance.

The main objectives are related to:
a) The organizations-associations- comprising the most important statutory parties in the implementation of environmental protection strategies and biodiversity as well as sustainable development;

b)A new, mutual and organized framework, structures and infrastructures defining stable collaboration principles to enhance environmental and socioeconomic competitiveness in the specific area.

c)Short-term and long-term benefits of the projects for the residents.

d) Development of an entrepreneurial mentality towards sustainable activities supporting an eco-friendly culture, exploiting the natural resources and the opportunities that the area offers.

e) Raising awareness in environmental issues and encourangement of a more responsible future generation.

As a partner of the Eye of Europe Project, Helenos will implement its first pilot on Fashion Futuring, investigating potential links among objects, fiction, culture, and systems to understand how the values of the systems/societies can shape the future of fashion.

Date: 20/01/2025

Time: 12.00-16.00 (local-Athens time)

Location: MOMus- Museum of Modern Art, Thessaloniki, Greece

Format: In-person

Audience: Regional stakeholders and citizens 

Context

Have you ever wondered why people in Ancient Egypt (3100-30 BCE) wore hair wigs? Or why samurai have been associated with kimonos, while feminine full skirts are linked with the post-war America of the ‘50s? There are numerous examples of fashion items that represent specific periods and places. But what does that signify? In ancient Egypt, men wearing hair wigs was considered an honor and a symbol of equalization to women, as women were regarded as wise and sacred.  

Similarly, in Tokugawa Japan (1603 – 1868), when samurai lived, clothing indicated one’s rank and role within the highly structured feudal society, while in post-war America, fashion was influenced by the idealized image of the suburban family, emphasizing domesticity and traditional gender roles. The common space of all three examples is that - throughout the centuries - fashion has served people and societies as a way of self-expression, a sign of social status, also revealing the prevailing social norms and beliefs. 

Today, our highly complex and uncertain world requires strategic tools that will help us create new sustainable development trajectories. Fashion not only reveals unique and collective identities, norms, and ethics but is also associated with environmental issues. It is one of the largest pollutant industries, prompting a shift in the way we produce and consume fashion items. How might the climate crisis change our attitudes, and how does this impact the fashion industry? 

What is Fashion Futuring?

Fashion Futuring is an innovative approach that investigates potential links among objects, fiction, culture, and systems to understand how the values of the systems/societies can shape the future of fashion. It suggests a significant shift in the future of fashion approach, moving away from short-term trends and financial forecasting as primary factors for fashion production, towards sustainable, more humane means of fashion producing and consuming. 

The pilot

The upcoming pilot at the beginning of the next year is targeted towards regional stakeholders in Greece, such as citizens, CCI regional firms, and experts from academia and market and regional policy-makers. The workshop consists of a 7-stage methodology based on Garcia (2023), where participants will be encouraged to share their personal experiences and values, co-create a fictional future, and work together to design a fictional fashion item based on this future. The workshop will utilize various foresight methods, primarily core design, what-if scenario development, and strategic thinking.

In the spring of 2025, Helenos Consulting will organize a second pilot on the same topic, focussing on a different audience of international and national Fashion, Textile, and foresight experts, to grasp a holistic image of the topic. 

This workshop will be implemented in Greek with citizens and other local stakeholders from Thessaloniki.

What will Europe look like in 2040? How will we travel, how will our society be organised, how will our schools function and what kind of jobs will people have? These are just some of the questions we have been asking Europeans to reflect on as part of the #OurFutures project launched by the EU Policy Lab. Through it, we collect EU citizens' images through a narrative inquiry method.

We recently did this in Greece, in close collaboration with foresight experts in the Greek government by reaching out to Greek citizens to gain insights into how people in this part of Europe would like the future to look like.

We have spoken to Epaminondas Christophilopoulos (UNESCO chair on Futures research at the Foundation for Research and Technology) and Vivian Efthimiopoulou (communication expert), focusing on some of their findings which demonstrate the value of citizen-generated future images for developing people-centric policies at both national and EU level.